09 Sep 2025 18 min read

A week of biking in the West Scotland Highlands

I spent a week with two good friends of mine; Campbell and Harry, bike packing through the West Scotland Highlands. Campbell, Scottish born and bred, said it was the best week he has ever had on the bike in Scotland. We got incredibly lucky with the weather and had blue skies, no rain, no wind and no clouds for the entire week. Simply unheard of in Scotland.

The timing was convenient as Laura and I had a wedding in Dublin, Ireland at the end of August. The timing also worked for Harry post Tour de France and pre Vuelta Espana. I headed across to the UK a week early to catch up with Campbell and Harry while Laura enjoyed her time on the south coast of France.

Touchdown in the UK

It was a quick transition from the south coast of France to Glasgow, Scotland greeted by the Scottish summer of muggy overcast conditions and an afternoon torrential rain shower. Campbell and Harry picked me up from the airport, but inevitably, my bike didn't make it to the final destination. So, after an hour of chasing tails I managed to ensure my bike would be booked on the next flight to Glasgow, ready for our departure on our bike trip early the next morning.

It was great to see Campbell, Jess and Finn again. I hadn't seen them since they moved back to the UK in 2022, so there was a lot to catch up on, including briefing for the week ahead. They have a lovely new house in Crieff, about halfway between Glasgow and Edinburgh and it felt just like home. Very relaxing and good to unwind and not be suffering in 40 degree heat in the tent.

It was also great to debrief with Harry after his month at the Tour. I managed to briefly see Harry at stages 13 and 14 on the Tour, but he was a man on a mission then working 16 hour days behind the lens. A lot of stories to catch up on, including his robbery at the Giro.

Route overview

Being the local, we vested all routing planning responsibilities to Campbell. Harry and I both agreed, he did an exceptional job of it covering a large distance through some of the most beautiful and remote parts of the highlands.

We covered 715km with 9,230m of climbing over the 6-days of riding.

The route started and finished in Contin, just north west of Inverness and looped in a clockwise direction west passing through:

Loch Ness
Fort William
Loch Shiel
Isle of Mull
Mallaig
Isle of Skye
Applecross

Day 1: Contin to Fort Augusta

It was an early start to first head an hour in the opposite direction back to the airport to collect my bike - sigh. However, the claims process was seamless and I had my bike and was back out the door within 15min - very impressed. Stark contrast to the French experience...

It was then an almost 3-hour drive north to Contin where we would start and finish our ride. I unboxed my bike, did a quick repack, relube and gear check then we were away and rolling. It felt very free and unencumbered with minimal gear.

Going lightweight for a week in Scotland. Just the one 8L dry bag on the back, 3L frame bag and bar bag for snacks.

We set off on the back country roads alongside the waterways to Inverness where we stopped for a bite of lunch. We then carried on further west along the shores of the infamous Loch Ness. No sightings of Nessie were had that day.

Rolling around the back country roads out of Contin.

A very typical Scottish single track road.

We didn't spend long at the top of the final climb due to the swarms of midgies, so we quickly dropped down into Fort Augusta and checked into our hostel before heading to the pub for dinner. A successful first day.

Stats: 102km /1,000m

Day 2: Fort Augusta to Lochaline

Fulled up with a solid hostel buffet breakfast, we barely made it out of the carpark before Harry got yelled at by a local: "it's as if people don't fucking exist on the road" as the local stumbled down the middle of the street on their way home from the pub at 8am, supposedly aggrieved that Harry had cut her off. Off to a great start.

We followed the rivers, canals, lakes and locks through the forest and along the gravel. Most of day 2 was on gravel, which made for spectacular riding along an old railway line and shared gravel tracks.

Old railway line converted into a bike trail.

Loch Lochy (yes - real name). Ben Nevis is out of picture at my 4 o-clock.

We stopped in just across the lake from Fort William for lunch, which was our next humorous encounter with the highlands way of life. Harry and I were joking as we were standing in line at the cafe that it was lucky we got there early enough, because the way the menu was printed they didn't serve food between 10:30am and 11am, when breakfast ended and lunch started, surely a typo on the menu. We ordered some breakfast buns and coffees and decided to get another round of breakfast buns, so I wandered in 5min later (at 10:32am) to re-order. However, I was shit out of luck because they were no longer serving the breakfast menu. Right, okay. So I decided no worries, i'll get a toastie off the lunch menu. Nope, sorry, lunch isn't until 11am. So, one breakfast bun it was then, as they flat out refused to make any food between 10:30 and 11am! Lesson learnt.

A 10 lock system. We stood and watched a boat pass through one of these locks and by quick math didn't think to hang around for the rest!

A short section along one of the main A-roads which was unavoidable, we shortly turned off and back onto the gravel, passing by the Glenfinnian Viaduct - the infamous bridge from Harry Potter.

Glenfinnian Viaduct aka the Harry Potter Bridge.

The next 15-20km of gravel alongside Loch Neil was some spectacular riding. Really nice rolling gravel and spectacular views and one of the best sections of the trip.

Stunning gravel roads rolling along Loch Shiel. The Harry Potter viaduct in the background.

Lovely gravel roads and stunning views along Loch Shiel.

However, the trade-off was a literal wall to get up and over the head of the loch. My Garmin was showing 29% (obviously incorrect) but I think the official stats from the climb were something like 2km at 15-20%. Brutally steep and tough on the knees.

The top of climb looking down to Strontian. Lochaline is over the next hill.

We crested the top, Harry was fighting for his life, and then we dropped down into Strontian for a refuel before cruising up and over another climb before finally dropping out on the headlands at Lochaline for the night.

Beautiful coastline before climbing up and over to Lochaline.

Harry trying to ring in some form for the next 4-days of riding.

This was our biggest day of the trip mixed in with probably about 40% of gravel. We slept very well that night at a hostel on the headlands. A very popular diving spot, so full of groups there for diving expeditions. We chowed down our Uncle Ben's rice and tuna bought from the convenience store 30km down the road because, again, there was no guarantee of food in Lochaline.

Stats: 135km / 1,520m

Day 3: Strontian to Toberymory (Isle of Mull)

Day 3 was certainly one of the most spectacular on the bike, especially around the backside of the Isle of Mull, because we had incredible weather but also because the road along the coastline was also closed to traffic due to rockfall. Bingo.

We got the ferry from Strontian first thing in the morning across to Fishnish (yes, real names) before tenderly swinging our legs over the bikes and riding eastbound around the Isle.

Feeling energised and refuelled on the other side of the ferry crossing after his coffee, coke and pastry.

The day provided for endless panoramic scenery which was simply mind blowing. Isle of Mull is one of the most beautiful places in Scotland, but nearly always hammered by bad weather. So we were incredibly lucky to experience it the way we did. This was Campbell's third of fourth time to the island and first time he could actually see the views!

The backside of the Isle of Mull where we benefited from a very fortunate road closure. Simply stunning.

Apparently the weather isn't always like this in Scotland?

We also managed to spot some highland cattle along the way. A truly authentic day in the highlands. With limited options for re-supply along the way, we were grateful to come across a cafe on the far side of the island to refuel with water and expensive crafty colas.

Aldi version of the LCM getting us through.

We also got to experience first-hand a Scottish stand-off on the one way single track roads that circumnavigate the island as a car and van came head to head - each waiting for the other to cede. Campbell offered some truly Scottish guidance to the car "he's in a van so he's not going to reverse you fucking tosser!" as we rode past. Classic Scottish encounter.

On day 3 Harry's legs finally came good and his 2 days of form building had converted. What started as slightly pressing on some of the climbs turned into full blown efforts to ride each other off the wheel. No good reason for it other than competitiveness and idiocracy. The name of the game was to do it subtly, with minimal perceived effort, usually a seated effort and minimal body sway. Fair to say by the end of the day we had well cooked ourselves, much to Campbell's amusement.

We dropped down the hill into Tobermory for the night. A beautiful little seaside fishing village that has bright colourful buildings lining the waterfront. We stopped in at the pub while we waited for check-in to open before heading to the other pub for dinner. It was hilarious listening to all the locals complaining about the "heat" being a nice 25 degrees, stark contrast to the 40+ temps I had been riding in the weeks before.

The colourful little coastal town of Tobermory.

A wholly-authentic Scottish experience - well rounded.

Stats: 116km / 1,500m

Day 4: Tobermory via Ardnamurchan Lighthouse to Malaig

The day started off incredibly well with a feed at the Tobermory bakery. A mac'n'cheese pie topped with slow cooked pork and a slice of the world's biggest chocolate cake we were suitably carbed up for another big day in the saddle. Although the carb content nearly put me into a food coma on the ferry ride over to the mainland.

Day 4 of weather like this. Crossing from Tobermory back to the mainland.

We hoped on the ferry first thing in the morning. Another clear, windless day in the Scottish highlands - just the norm for us really. Off the ferry we first rode west right out to the headland and the Ardnamurchan Lighthouse - the furthest west point of the whole of the UK. We then cut our tracks back and east following the headlands to Salen and then up and over the hill to Acharacle.

The rest of the day was spent riding through the rolling countryside and coastline. The riding in Scotland is particularly relentless as the roads are seldom flat, but rather pierced with short and steep punchy climbs the whole way along. That's a lot of short, sharp punchy climbs to make up 1,600m of elevation.

Later in the day we rode past some beautiful white sandy beaches which, again, I had no idea were a thing in Scotland. It seemed most of the local population and some were out that day trying to catch some sun, a rarity in this part of the world (apparently).

A very common section of tree lined single track road. The locals drive these roads as if they're not expecting to come across anyone. Pretty scary when they're driving a fully loaded tractor at 50km/h!!

Lovely little coastal bay along what Scotland calls a "dual carriageway" in the Highlands.

White sandy beaches in Scotland? People sunbathing on the white sandy beaches in Scotland??

A round of beers at the local pub before a good feed of local fish and chips for dinner.

Stats: 117km / 1,600m

Day 5: Malaig to Applecross (Isle of Skye and Bealach na Ba)

Day 5 was a monster as we took the ferry from the mainland across to the biggest and most infamous of the Scottish islands; Isle of Skye before traversing across the island, around the coastline and then finishing on the other side of the biggest climb in the UK; the Bealach na Ba.

Isle of Sky with the infamous peaks, rolling countryside and scattered houses.

Another smooth, windless ferry crossing to get us started for the day as we chowed down our stash of pastries from the local bakery. We were lining up outside the bakery door at 10min to opening, mouths watering as we could see the freshly baked pastries lined up on the counter. A quick transition, we got from bakery to ferry in 15min to catch the next boat across. Efficiency is key, especially when Campbell is in charge.

Sunrise across the harbour outside the bakery in Malaig.

Once on the Isle of Skye we dropped over the backside of the island to avoid the busier main roads (busy in the context of rural Scotland). Around the backside of the Isle we were gifted some incredible postcard scenery with the rolling green hills, coastline and towering peaks that are infamous for the Isle of Skye. One of the most photogenic spots of the whole trip.

Put that on your Scottish postcard!! Isle of Skye.

Have you noticed yet that 90% of the photos are of Campbell out in front? The man has some serious Scottish horsepower and towed us around most of the Highlands.

Another short section of A-road was required to get us from the Isle of Skye back onto the mainland again, where Campbell decided to put his head down and ride at 300-340w for 20min, which had Harry and I absolutely swinging. Up and over the bridge and back onto the mainland we stopped for a refuel, feeling very broken from Campbell's effort (yes, we were just on the wheel!).

Crossing the bridge from the Isle of Skye back to the mainland.

As we carried on around the coastline, the 'Bealach na Ba' was ringing in our ears - the infamous mountain pass, the highest and steepest in the UK. As we came around the coast we suddenly got a view of the mountain pass road winding its way up and away out of sight. The Bealach na Bà is a 9km mountain pass with an elevation gain of 630m averaging 7.5% with a ramp up to 20-21%. It just kept getting steeper!

Some serious carb loading and caffeinating was required at the township near the base of the climb before we put our heads down and got on with the job. I put my AirPods in, found my climbing rhythm from the last 2-months of climbing in the Pyrenees and Alps and got to it. The last quarter of the climb is the toughest, with the 3-2km section averaging 13% before hitting the final switchbacks. I was climbing well, felt strong on the bike and managed to top out at just under 40min which I was surprised by. Turns out I must actually be fit from the months of biking.

The Bealach na Ba in the background which passes up to the left of the round hill centre picture.

Harry stopped a lot on the way up the Bealach to apparently "take photos". Sure, dude.

After some photos at the top we dropped all the way back down to sea level and into Applecross, our last stay for the trip. You know the routine by now; beers and dinner at the pub.

The backside of the Bealach, dropping down into Applecross at the base of the valley.

A stunning sunset as we rolled along the waterfront back to our accomodation, highland cattle grazing the paddock on the other side of the road. It felt truly surreal. What a way to finish.

Heading up the valley to our accomodation in Applecross.

Stats: 122km / 2,110m

Day 6: Applecross to Contin

Finally, a little taste of Scottish summer as we rolled out of our accomodation in the morning swarmed by a haze of midgies. We could stop for no longer than a handful of seconds before getting eaten alive, creating a great incentive to keep moving.

A quick refuel at the local pub to get a self-proclaimed "best breakfast bun in Scotland" (to be fair, it was pretty good). We set off following the coastline around towards Shieldaig. This was quite an impressive fjord with lovely rolling hills and nice scenery.

The self proclaimed "best breakfast bun in Scotland".

Hugging the coastline away from Applecross.

We stopped in at Shieldaig for lunch before continuing on climbing up through the pass to Kinlochewe where, much to Harry's disappointment, they didn't stock Redbull. Nevertheless, a substitute was found, we were re-caffienated and ready for the final 70km back to Contin.

Keeping the water on our left, we hugged the coastline around to the east.

One final stretch on a busier main road, Campbell and I took turns pulling on the front to get the section over and done with. You see, the trouble with point-to-point riding such as bike packing is that if on a given day the prevailing wind is headwind, then unfortunately you will most likely be riding into a head wind all day long! This was a bit of us, probably some good karma from the week of good weather, but fortunately it was only a light breeze.

Wee coastal spot not far from Shieldaig.

To round out his exceptional route planning skills, Campbell took us down a gravel paper trail through a forestry block that popped us out right behind where our car was park - exceptional!

Stats: 123km / 1,500m

A few days to relax and unwind in Crieff

Harry was off again early the next morning, with only a 13hr turnaround in Girona to pack up all his camera gear and head away for another month on the road at the Vuelta. I took the opportunity to sleep in.

Campbell and I were both feeling the efforts of the 6-days of riding so enjoyed some down time taking Finn for walks and pottering about the house. I spent most of the first day catching up on business work, and applying for jobs for the upcoming winter ski season.

We ventured out for a short 1-hour recovery ride on some of Campbell's local roads which was really nice. Beautiful rolling countryside lanes. The following day we lined up a longer gravel ride along some of Campbell's favourite gravel trails.

Local roads in Crieff, lovely for riding.

Plenty of trails too, ideal for the gravel bikes.

Exercising our god damn Scottish right to access.

On Saturday Jess joined us for a venture down the road to Perth for a bite of lunch at a nice cafe and a look around the shops. My mission was to find myself a full wedding outfit for minimal cost - Primark sorted me out.

Approval for the £39 Primark fit? Mullet, piercing and stache sold separately.

It was fantastic seeing Campbell, Jess and Finn again. I had been in regular contact with Campbell since he left New Zealand, but it was great to see each other again and to experience the best week ever of riding around the Scottish Highlands. I joked as I was leaving that I can't come back to Scotland because it'll never be better than this.

Campbell dropped me off at the airport for my early morning RyanAir flight to Dublin for the wedding.

Up next:

24hrs in Dublin for a wedding.
A week of hiking in the Dolomites.
Proper tourist mode in Venice, Verona and Milan.
A month back on the road again biking through Italy.

Ciao for now!