31 Jul 2025 17 min read

Pyrenees by bike & Le Tour de France

We started our bike packing adventure in the south of France in the Pyrenees. This is also where we also linked up to watch three stages of Le Tour de France.

The biking has been incredible, and I finally got to live my childhood dream of watching Le Tour - it exceeded all expectations and it was the best day of my life!!

Apologies in advance, this is a bit of a long one. I’m obsessed with the Tour (in case you didn’t already know). This is a summary of our first section of bike packing in Europe.

Arrivée France 🇫🇷

We arrived to the heat in the summer of south France in Toulouse. First thing’s first; sort the debacle that our bikes had been left in Paris 🫠 cool cool, no worries Air France. It’s not like we paid an extortionate amount already for our bikes and reserved a spot for them on the flight....

After managing the very “French” customer service (lol) we managed to get our bikes on the next fight arriving at 6pm that night. We cancelled our train, rebooked our accomodation and changed our plans to accomodate this nuisance.

As of today, I’m still chasing the €200 of additional costs incurred thanks to AirFrance. Don’t worry, my academic brain is hungry for a challenge and I have a lot of time on my hands. We’ll be getting our money back.

It worked out well, because we had an extra day in Toulouse and had an AirBnB for our first night. We explored the city, got ourselves some French SIM cards and, naturally, went to a local bar for an espresso, cold beer and to watch Le Tour on the TV. Living the European dream.

Riding along the canal from the airport into the city centre as the sun was setting at 9:30pm.

Riding in the Pyrenees

We loaded everything we owned onto our bikes and made our way to the train station. We caught a short ride from Toulouse to Tarbes and then started riding 🌞

The rigs fully loaded and ready to roll. 3-months' worth of gear packed up. My bike weighing in at 33kg before water and food.

Toulouse train station waiting for our ride into the Pyrenees.

You know you've embraced the traveller lifestyle when you start rocking Tevas.

Very quickly we were in the French countryside. Lovely rolling hills, quiet roads and the summer sun.

Passing through all the lovely small French villages.

Top of the first climb - not categorised. Just the first climb of the trip.

We passed through Lourdes, a town famous for its “Holy Water” and then followed the bike path into the mountains.

Lourdes and the site of its Holy Water. Some of the purist water in the world, sourced straight from the Pyrenees.

Our first destination, recommended to us by our friends Tristin an Emma was Luz Saint Sauveur, a small alpine village tucked away in the Pyrenees.

Our camp in the Pyrenees. Luz Saint Sauveur.

Second camp in Luz Saint Sauveur sharing with Victor and Gustav from Sweden. Sunset and a castle in the background.

Climbing Cols in Luz Saint Sauveur

Luz Saint Sauveur (LSS) was a strategic location because we could base ourselves and ride unloaded up all of the infamous Tour de France climbs of the Pyrenean region.

Our first week of riding was busy ticking off a lot of the iconic Tour de France climbs:

• Hautacam (HC) 13.5km at 7.8%

• The Tourmalet (HC) 19km at 7.4%

• Luz Ardiden (HC) 13.3km at 7.6%

• Col D’Aspin (Cat 1) 12km at 5.3%

• Col Du Horquette (Cat 1) 10.3km at 6.4%

• Col Du Azet (Cat 1) 7.4km at 8.4%

Our first HC summit - The Hautacam. Stage 12 of the Tour de France finished up here 5-days later.

Summit of the Col du Tourmalet. Probably one of the most infamous climbs of the Tour de France. Stage 14 of the 2025 Tour passes up here.

Looking back down the valley of the Col du Tourmalet towards Luz Saint Sauveur (not pictured).

Laura and Kim summiting the Col du Tourmalet.

Laura and Kim racing back down the Col du Tourmalet.

Victor and Gustav riding up Col D'Aspin.

Lovely little French village called Arreau which sits in the valley surrounded by infamous Tour de France cols.

A rare photo of the photographer. Climbing up Col D'Aspin (I think).

On our third day, Laura’s friend from home Kim joined us. After a very last minute and spontaneous decision, Kim bought a bike the day before she left NZ and all the gear in Toulouse then came and joined us! She was great company and made the riding a lot more fun.

Laura and Kim heading back into Luz Saint Sauveur in search of a chocolate croissant and coffee. Castle in the background.

After our week in LSS, I made a slight change of plans. We had met two guys from Sweden on the Hautacam and subsequently been hanging out with them, enjoying halo burgers and Aperol spritz in the evenings. I decided that I really wanted to watch another stage of the Tour, so Laura and Kim left a day earlier to bike the 100km around to the next valley while I stayed behind with Victor and Gustav.

Aperol Spritz with Victor and Gustav from Sweden.

Pre mega Pyrenean ride with Victor and Gustav.

Victor and Gustav invited me on their sadistic ride, which involved going back up the Tourmalet (again), then linking up Col D’Aspin and Col Du Horquette for a 140km day with 3,700m of climbing. I loved it.

Route check about half-way through and doing the math on how much climbing and distance we had to get back to camp.

One of the small farm roads that are very common in the Pyrenees. Lovely little road. No traffic.

Rest day essentials. Cheese, salami, wine and Le Tour.

Le Tour de France

So, the day had finally arrived. Since I was a young boy, myself and my mates would get together for one night every year to stay up all night and watch a stage of the Tour live on TV (we still do this). We all dreamed of seeing the Tour in person one day, and I was the last of our friend group to get around to it.

Stage 12

I had my originally planned to see stage 12, but changed my plans to accomodate the additional stage. It was the first mountain stage and finished up the Tournalet. Spoiler; Pogacar went over 1-hour faster than me up the climb.

Got all the essentials for spectating Le Tour. 30+ degree day.

We decided to dodge the crowds on Hautacam (good decision, because it took some people 4-hours to get down after the stage) and instead went and watched on Col Du Soulor (Cat 1).

Summit about 3-hours before the race was due to come through.

It was also Laurence’s birthday, and I had been messaging him a bit beforehand to let him know I would be on the road. I raced (and lost to) Laurence for years and we were roommates / teammates together at the Tour of Southland in 2021. Laurence is a phenomenal rider from Christchurch, and turned professional 3 years ago. He’s only 22, turned 23 on stage 13. So I made a sign for him - he didn’t know where I would be.

We left with plenty of time and rode up to the summit from the back side of the climb. It was hot, 30+° and it was packed. So many people. We found ourselves a good viewing spot about 1km from the summit and setup to wait. It was a big party on the mountain. The vibes were on.

About an hour before the race the caravan comes through. This is an array of 50+ vehicles of various race sponsors. Some of the vehicles are hilarious and yes, they have to drive these things hundreds of kilometres a day! They drive by blasting music and throwing out freebies.

One of the iconic caravan cars. They drive these things hundreds of kilometers a day!

Eventually we heard the sounds of helicopters and the novelty sponsors’ cars turned into very serious looking police cars and motorbikes. We race way around the corner. We had no reception on the mountain, so had no idea what was happening in the race.

The riders flew by us, even on the steep gradients. The most significant thing I noticed was how tiny they were. There was absolutely nothing to them. They came by within centimetres of us. So close we like have reached out and slapped them on the ass. I was too starts struck to take any photos and just soaked up the atmosphere.

Right up in the action on Col du Solour.

Once the lead group passed I turned my attention to trying to find Laurence. He’s not a climber, so guessed he would be in the big group out the back of the race called the “groupetto”. However, he was in the break! He was ahead of Pogacar and the GC group of riders.

I held my sign up and he immediately spotted me and had a massive grin on his face. He swung across the road and out his arm around me “so good to see you bro” as I ran alongside with my sign. He palmed me off his water bottle and I gave him a big shove to keep him on his way. I got a death stare from the Gendarmerie, but didn’t get arrested - whatever, no regrets.

Found him!! Loz loved the sign and had a huge grin on his face.

Arm aroud my shoulder and palmed me off his bidon. Legend.

Minutes later the GC group including the yellow jersey flew past, then the hundreds of cars behind the race and that was that! Everyone packed up and it was a party down the mountain.

Getting to stage 13

Now started the logistical battle of getting from one valley in the Pyrenees to the next valley to watch stage 13. A tough ask that I had already mentally prepared for. Absolutely fizzed from the Tour, I smacked back some calories at camp, loaded up and hit the road at 9pm.

First up; Tourmalet. My third time up now, but this time fully loaded. It was a party atmosphere the whole way up the climb with people cheering for me and partying. I summited at 11pm then dropped off the backside.

Up next; Col D’Aspin (Cat 1). I passed by fans painting the roads in the cover of darkness and summited at 1:10am.

I dropped into the finally valley for the climb up to Loudenville, making camp by 2:30am. By day, but Stoke levels high. Ready for stage 13.

Stage 13

Stage 13 was a time trial from Loudenville up to Peyragaud, only 13km in length so packed with fans.

Laurence messaged me after the stage to thank me for the sign and told me to come by team bus in the morning. Of course!

He hooked me up with his pass, which got me access to the team area. I spent the entire day cruising around with the riders, in amongst the team buses and rubbing shoulders with the guys I’d seen on tv - my heroes. What an insane experience.

Laurence even gave me a tour of the Bora Redbull team bus and hooked me up with some drinks from their fridge. Unreal. Bora Redbull had a full setup, one of the best teams in the world the amount of money and logistics that went into their setup is crazy. One of their riders got third overall in the Tour!

Laurence's own VIP pass that got me into the rider's area at the Tour.

Inside the Bora Redbull team bus with some of the riders kitting up for the day.

Team UAE Emirates including World Champion and 4-time Tour de France winner Tadej Pogacar's bike.

The GOAT!! Mark Cavendish. Most Tour de France stage wins ever.

Now for where the best experience turned into my best day ever. Laurence invited me into the Bora rider area to hang out with him while he warmed up. While I was hanging about I threw the cheeky wee question; “got any space in the team car?”. ”SHIT YEAH” replied Laurence, while the team managers responded more diplomatically that they would have to check the rule book.

After some consultation and a few caveats that it was “not allowed”, they allowed me to ride in the car. Mainly due to Laurence’s insistence. Legend.

Given the time trial stage was slightly different to a normal road stage, it actually worked well as there was only one DS in the car following Laurence. While we were waiting to start, Laurence ran over, excited because he had scored me a UAE bottle from Neils Pollit (Pogacar’s key domestique).

The Tour is the real deal and they have every gadget and tool under the sun. Each rider is fitted with a 2-way radio allowing the riders to talk to their teammates on the road and to the race car behind. After a few tests on Laurence’s radio with his DS, he asked to put me on and requested that I call the shots …. Ahh WHAT!!

So Laurence wanted me, an amateur, to call the shots on his radio during the biggest race in the world. PANIC.

In one hand I had the tracker, an app that showed the course, profile, gradient, timing checks, speed, distance and all other data for Laurence. The other hand I had Pro Cycling Stats to monitor the live results and time checks and my third hand I had the radio. No chance to take photos or videos. I coached him through some tight bends early on and advised him of the gradients and upcoming changes.

Loz climbing up to Peyraguade with the cable car in the background, about 2km to go here.

During the race he was talking back to me telling me to “soak in the experience” The man just needed to focus on racing the most important race in the world, let alone what I’m doing!

Importantly, I told him where Laura and Kim were standing and he gave them a wave and then I also told him where my other good friend, Harry, was standing. Harry is a professional photographer and one of the best in the world. Laurence swung over and Harry got his money shot.

My good friend Harry - professional photographer at the Tour de France.

The atmosphere in the race car and being on course was just insane. The road was lined with crowds 5-people deep. The noise, the adrenaline and the craze was overwhelming.

The final ramp up to the finish for Loz. The gradient on this final 800m was about 18%.

Laurence made it across the line safely. Today was just a rest day for him, one short time trial effort and making sure he made time cut.

Once at the top of the climb, I jumped out of the team car. Still shaking from. The experience of it all. I hung with Laurence and his team managers for a while before they shot off back to the hotel. I linked up with Laura and Kim and then our Swedish mates Victor and Gustav to debrief on the day.

Tour de France runner-up and previous winner; Jonas Vinegaard just after the finish of his effort up the mountain.

What an insane experience. Something I will remember forever. Thank you, Laurence.

My absolute hero who gave me the most memorable day of my life.

Stage 14

I woke up very tired the next day. I think from all the adrenaline from the last two days.

We had a lot of time up our sleeves. The race was coming through town later that day so we went to the local cafe for coffee and pastries.

Riding up the climb to watch the riders came past was a lot of fun. All the fans were cheering and it felt like being part of the Tour.

Kim heading up the climb with her sign on the back and the road already painted in anticipation of the riders.

We camped out in a good wee spot and ate our baguettes while watching the race unfold down the road from us on the live stream. They were racing up the Tourmalet before they arrived where we were.

We scored more goodies at the caravan and then watched the race fly by. We didn’t manage to spot Laurence today, but still got to see all the riders up close and personal. Another amazing day at the Tour.

G - one of my favourite riders. This is his last Tour before retirement. 2018 Tour winner and overall great human.

Final days in the Pyrenees

On our last day myself, Laura and Kim did a loop up another local climb (Col du Azet) and around the valley. It was nice to all ride together.

One of the lovely little French villages in the Pyrenees.

We spent about an hour and a half at the cafe in the valley over drinking coffee and eating pastries living our best lives.

Post-ride dip in the lake. Loudenville in the background and Peyragaude the mountain on the left.

On our final day we had committed to an early wake up and departure to ride 40km down the valley to catch our train. While we had committed to a liberal 730am leaving time, there was inevitably a lot of faffing in the morning which put us 45min behind schedule. Kim suffered a mechanical on the way and because we didn’t have time to fix it, we had to leave her to get it sorted.

Back in Toulouse and cruising the streets.

Navigating the alleyways in search of the best coffee and pastries.

We made the train with 15min to spare. However, encountered a tosser if a train warden on our ride back to Toulouse. He argued that because we had bought and paid for a ticket for 3 people (€50), but we were only a people (because Kim didn’t make it and had to book a later train), that we had to pay a fine for having the wrong ticket. The fine was €80. Absolutely not. I argued and argued and argued with him for 30min. Laura eventually won him over with kindness (usually it’s the other way around!) and he moved on. Tosser.

Our final day was back in Toulouse where we started, reunited with Kim and in a shared AirBnB which was rather hilarious.

The rigs back in Toulouse after a successful first outing.

Up next; the French Alps! We caught a train from Toulouse to Lyon to spend a few days with our friend Matt. Thereafter we caught a train to Geneva to start our journey riding south from Geneva through the French Alps all the way to Nice.